Spot the fake Contaxes!
Unfortunately a few people are trying to pass Kievs off as Contaxes. This is not difficult as only the front cover needs to be swapped with a Contax one to provide a convincing ‘CONTAX’
Here are a few tips to help spot a fake.

· BEWARE of ‘rare’ or ‘unusual’ Contaxes for sale on EBAY. A recent black Contax with a re-engraved Jupiter 8 was correctly described as a copy but some people are not so honest…..

· All pre-war and wartime Contaxes had ZEISS IKON embossed into the leather back.

· Very few Contaxes were flash synchronised from the factory – please see Rick Oleson’s site, click http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-46.html for some information on how they may have been synch’d at the factory. Apparently Zeiss outlets would fit after market flash synchronisation for many years after Contax II/III production ended.

· Only KIEVs had a film speed reminder disk on the film rewind knob.

· On the lens focussing mount, if you see distances are separated by a dot, e.g. 1.5 or 1.15, or if the additional scale on the inner edge is not present, then at least a Kiev focussing mount has been fitted.

· Serial Numbers – should start with a single letter (Z through A, B, C etc. to Q depending on the year of manufacture), followed by some numbers.

· Early cameras had their serial numbers in white inside the body on its base. They were repeated inside the back.

· Later cameras had serial numbers in the accessory shoe; these may or may not be repeated inside the back.

· CONTAX is clearly stamped into the front chrome panel.

· It’s very difficult to tell if someone has put a KIEV chassis in an otherwise genuine Contax. Any signs of flash synchronisation contacts riveted inside the left of the frame (viewed from the back) should ring alarm bells. The problem is that various genuine Contax chassis look so like the Kiev that only very close examination can prove whether it is genuine or not. Also Contaxes may have been repaired with Kiev parts over the years.

Buyers guide
Contax II or III cameras are still to be found – I have bought 3 by chance over the last 3 years. I think reputable dealers or camera fairs are the best place to start as you will have a chance to try the camera out and negotiate a price based on condition.
EBAY is a good source of cameras; also various vintage camera dealers on the Web often have one in stock.
Ebay caution:

· Take care that what you see is what you get,

· Ask if the seller will take the goods back if they do not wok as stated,

· ALWAYS try to use PayPal – you at least have some protection from Ebay should things go wrong,

· Take a look at the NEGATIVE feedback for sellers – even if it’s only a low figure!

Although good Contaxes will easily meet (or outperform) an equivalent vintage Leica, the Contax sells today for much less. Ones in need of repair may fetch £50, whilst a good working camera can be had for about £100. I have seen excellent examples for over £200.

The Kiev copies are more easily available; many are being imported from Russia. More care needs to be taken as quality control was very patchy and it’s easy to buy a dud. Prices are rising; very good ones are fetching 80 to 100 UK Pounds. A working example can be had for 40 to 50 UK Pounds and cameras in need of repair for about 15 to 20.
As the Contax and Kiev are virtually identical, this covers both models.

ITEMS TO CHECK

Shutter cords and latches.
Remove the camera back.
Set the shutter speed to ‘B’ and wind, observing the shutter as you do this.
If the shutter winds cock-eyed or the blinds are not joined, there is a problem.
Press the shutter release and hold it down. The second (lower) shutter blind should fire with a smart buzzing sound (not just flop open).
Now look into the gaps to the right and left of the film aperture. You SHOULD see light coloured ribbons, one on each side. If a ribbon is broken, it can be easily replaced.
If a ribbon is not broken, the curtain latches need adjusting. This can be a tricky operation but is repairable.

Correct hooking up of the second shutter blind.
Set the speed to 1/1250 (1/1000 for later Kievs).
Remove the back
Wind the shutter on.
Alter the shutter speed to ‘B’ then re-set it to 1250 (1/1000).
If the second shutter curtain opens as this is being done, some adjustment of the catch mechanism at best is needed (easy), at worst the catch could be broken, which is extremely difficult to repair.

Check for shutter capping at 1/1250 (1/1000 for later Kievs).
Set the speed to 1/1250 (1/1000 for later Kievs).
Remove the back and lens.
Wind the shutter on.
Place your eye over the lens aperture.
Point the camera to the sky or a well lit light surface.
Fire the shutter – repeat the above process several times.
You should see a clearly defined rectangle that is the film gate. If you only see part of it, this indicates the shutter blinds are closing prematurely or opening late.
This can be repaired.
Check all other shutter speeds.
Go through each speed – a second camera is useful here to use as a reference model to estimate speed accuracy. If you have access to a television you can get a good idea of how accurate the speeds are – click http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-135.html
Any harshness in the winding of the shutter or tendency to jam indicates the need for a shutter overhaul.

Check the rangefinder.

· The rangefinder is operated by the knurled wheel on the top right of the camera.

· Make sure the wheel is wound fully to the right, and the lens mount is pointing to infinity (8).

· Check that the wheel is locked – the small chrome button needs depressing to adjust the focus off infinity.

· Look into the rangefinder – there should be an orange patch in the centre whose image co-incides precisely with an object at infinity. A distant lamp post is the ideal object to use to check this.

· Vertical misalignment (II) is relatively easy to adjust.

· Horizontal misalignment (=) is not so easy – generally a complete strip of the camera is required.

· The image in the viewfinder/rangefinder should be clean and clear.

· The focussing action should be smooth throughout its range – any tight spots will require the focus mount to be removed and cleaned.

General condition.

· It goes without saying that the camera should be in reasonable external condition, especially free from dents and distortion of the camera back which may affect light tightness.